As a second-generation fishmonger, fresh seafood is in Michael Messiou’s blood. But when it came to expanding the family business, he also brought a sensibility informed by fine dining’s ‘less but better’ ethos. With an emphasis on ocean-to-plate transparency and premium, quality produce–AstakosFish Marketis a fish shop for the modern era.Michael considers it a testament to the ethos that drives his company. “We’re totally transparent.People can see our produce being cut and if a customer wants their fish prepped a certain way, theycan stand by our viewing window and see our staff prepare it. The whole space is designed toshowcase the best seafood.

Changing tides

“Many years ago, when people were buying fish, it was considered cheap,” Michael tells us. “We’d have people saying, ‘Oh, give me six kilos and I’ll freeze three.’ But they’d never actually eat it, and it becomes a waste product.” Now, Michael encourages his customers to buy a smaller quantity of quality products–a choice that benefits the consumer and the environment. “There’s no point buying several kilos of something ofa low standard when you can buy one of a quality product with the same nutritional value,” he says. “And it slows down overfishing to ensure there are fish in our ocean for the long term.”

Local lines

Working with local suppliers is a point of pride for Astakos Fish Market. “Sustainable seafood is acore foundation of our business,” Michael says. “It comes down to supporting local fishermen who respect the ocean and avoid overfishing.” These relationships mean being able to specify how fishare packed and transported, too. “We use air freight, which means we can get the fish in one day as opposed to a three-day transit if we use trucks.”Working closely with fishermen means AstakosFish Market can specify quantities to avoid additional strain on a particular species. They calculate their produce needs using stock tracking and inventory software. “We look at current sales and replenish as much as we need. We don’t go everyday and buy a certain amount–if one day we sell less, we buy less the next day.”

Making better seafood choices

As for tips on how consumers are able to make more sustainable choices, Michael’s advice is straightforward. “Ultimately, speak to your fishmonger,” he says. “Ask if the produce is line-caughtor hand-harvested. Look forwhat’s in season, then check for clear eyesand a natural sheen.” Forthose wanting to take things a step further, Michael recommends asking whether the fish havebeen killed humanely, either by a brain spike or ikejime (a Japanese technique). “Then you understand that the fish has been line-caught and hand-processed.” Michael also recommends broadening your palate – for sustainability and culinary reasons. “Seasonal eating ensures you’re getting the freshest seafood,” he says. It also gives species time to repopulate in the wild before the next season.' On top of the ethical benefits, there are health advantages, too. “You get a more nutrient-rich product. For example, if tuna is in stock in winter, itwill have more fat through its body–so you’ll get more omega-3."

You’ll find Astakos Fish Market on Lower Ground at Chatswood Chase.